Albania is a country that has long stood in the shadow of other travel destinations, but it is now – and rightly so – gaining more and more popularity.
Wild mountain landscapes invite you to go hiking, beautiful beaches with crystal-clear water are perfect for swimming, and lively cities offer plenty of cultural variety.
On top of that, Albania still comes with excellent value for money.
But is Albania also suitable for traveling with a baby or toddler?
Our answer: absolutely! For us, it was clear right away – we wanted to experience Albania in all its diversity.
Staying in just one place was never an option. So, with our then two-year-old daughter, we set out on a road trip across the country.
In this post, we share our experiences, our exact itinerary, and our personal highlights.
Maybe you’ll find just the inspiration or the practical tips you need to make planning your own trip to Albania with a baby or toddler easier.
For everyone who values comfort, flexibility, safety, and saving time, we believe that renting a car is the best option.
We would advise families with small children not to rely on public transport in Albania.
Timetables are often unreliable, connections are not always easy to understand, and many places such as remote beaches or mountain regions are not served at all.
For us, a rental car was an absolute must.
Not only because our daughter was safely strapped into her own child seat, but also because we saved a lot of valuable time compared to using public transport, traveled completely independently, and were able to reach almost every place in the country without any problems.
We booked our rental car in advance through rentalcars.com.
The process at the counter on site was smooth, so we could start our journey right away.
You can find more information about driving in Albania and our personal experiences in the following posts:
We spent a total of 14 full days in Albania, which we found to be more than enough.
This allowed us to discover all the sights that interested us while still having plenty of time to relax at the beach or by the pool.
If you also want to explore the north of the country (including hiking tours), you should either plan a bit more time or consciously cut back on other parts of your itinerary.
Our accommodation: Hotel Ikona
Recommended stay: 2 to 4 days
At the moment, all international flights to Albania arrive at Tirana Airport.
Once there, we first bought a SIM card to be able to use Google Maps right away, picked up our rental car, and set off towards the north of the country.
Shkodra is about a one-and-a-half-hour drive from Tirana.
Since we only arrived in Shkodra in the evening, we went straight to our wonderful accommodation, which we can highly recommend.
It is located right in the old town, offers spacious rooms, breakfast included, and a private parking space.
Parking in the city center can be difficult, so the private parking was absolutely worth it.
From our accommodation, we were able to explore Shkodra easily on foot.
The small city is not really a typical sightseeing destination, as there are only a few highlights to discover.
But that hardly matters, since most travelers come here mainly to take excursions into the surrounding region with its stunning nature.
It is no coincidence that Shkodra is often referred to as the gateway to the Albanian Alps.
The charming old town particularly impressed us in the late afternoon and evening.
At that time, countless bars and restaurants set up their tables and chairs out on the streets, pleasant music accompanies the lively atmosphere, and the alleys noticeably fill with life.
Both locals and tourists stroll leisurely through the streets, enjoy dining outdoors, or end the day with a drink.
As darkness falls, the many lights of the city create a wonderful ambiance and give Shkodra a very special flair.
For the city itself, half a day is usually enough.
However, if you want to go hiking or take excursions into the surrounding area, you should definitely plan to stay longer.
We ourselves spent two nights in Shkodra but could easily have added another day.
Built on a steep rocky hill, Rozafa Castle is the most famous sight in the city.
It is located south of Shkodra and is best reached by car.
From the parking area, a climb of about 130 meters in elevation leads up to the castle.
Since the paths within the castle walls are uneven and not paved, we recommend using a baby carrier rather than a stroller.
At the top, you are rewarded with a magnificent panoramic view over Shkodra and the rivers Kir and Drin.
As Rozafa Castle does not have an official website, you can only find up-to-date opening hours and entrance fees on site.
During our visit in June, the castle was open daily from 9 am to 9 pm. Entrance was around €4 for adults, children are free.
About 9 km outside Shkodra lies the impressive Ura e Mesit – the oldest preserved Ottoman stone bridge in Albania.
Its thirteen elegant arches stretch over a length of 108 meters and span the Kir River – truly a remarkable sight!
If you like, you can walk across the bridge and then go down to the river to cool off in the very cold but crystal-clear water.
However, the path is steep, rocky, and not developed, which makes it less suitable for families with small children.
During the hot summer months (July to September), the river may dry out.
Visiting the bridge is free of charge. Due to the rocky and uneven ground, we recommend using a baby carrier rather than a stroller here as well.
Lake Skadar lies on the border between Albania and Montenegro and is the largest lake in the Balkans.
On the Albanian side, the best access is through the small village of Shiroka, located just a few kilometers from Shkodra.
Along the lakeside promenade, there are a few small restaurants with lake views. The atmosphere is calm and relaxed – for us, almost a bit too quiet.
Unfortunately, at the water access points we found many pieces of broken glass among the rocks and in some areas quite a lot of litter.
In our opinion, the lake is therefore not very suitable for swimming with children.
If you don’t plan to swim, a short visit of about two hours is more than enough.
For those who enjoy hiking with a baby or toddler, a one-day or even better two-day excursion to the mountain village of Theth is a great option.
This small, remote place in the middle of the Albanian Alps is considered a true hiking paradise and comes highly recommended by many travelers.
Unfortunately, we cannot share any personal experiences, as hiking with a toddler seemed too exhausting for us, and we therefore decided against this excursion.
We unfortunately ran out of time for a day trip to the Shala Valley – but it’s right at the top of our list for next time.
The valley can only be reached by boat across Lake Koman.
The tour usually starts from the ferry port in Koman, about 1.5 to 2 hours from Shkodra.
The boat ride through the fjord-like lake with steep cliffs and turquoise-green water is said to be a real highlight in itself.
At the destination, the Shala River (Lumi i Shales) awaits you with crystal-clear, ice-cold water – perfect for cooling off or relaxing.
There are a few simple restaurants and small pebble beaches along the riverbank.
Our accommodation: Vilma Apartment
Recommended stay: 2 to 3 days
From Shkodra, we continued our journey to Berat, about a four-hour drive away, located in the interior of Albania.
Our accommodation, a modern and spacious apartment, was situated at the end of the pedestrian zone, directly opposite the well-known five-star Hotel Colombo.
We can highly recommend this place as well.
Compared to many accommodations in the historic old town, it offers a decisive advantage: parking spaces right in front of the building.
This way, you don’t have to carry your luggage through narrow, steep alleys.
From our accommodation, we could easily explore the city on foot. Small supermarkets for daily needs as well as a playground were also located nearby.
We started our sightseeing program with a view from above – after all, where else can you get a better overview of a city than from the top?
The perfect place for this: the grounds of Berat Castle (Kalaja).
Kalaja Castle is one of the city’s most important landmarks and is located on one of Berat’s highest points.
However, the climb on foot can be quite exhausting – especially during the summer months.
We therefore recommend starting very early in the morning and definitely bringing enough water.
During our visit in June, temperatures had already reached around 30 °C in the morning, so we decided to drive up by car to just below the castle walls and walk only the last – but still sweaty – stretch on foot.
Since the paths within the extensive castle grounds are also steep, uneven, and not paved, our advice once again: better bring a baby carrier instead of a stroller.
Entrance to the castle is free, and you can explore the entire area on your own. There are hardly any signs or information boards.
Within the old stone houses, a small community still lives there today, running a few restaurants and hostels.
From the viewing platform, you get a fantastic view over the whole of Berat as well as the Osum River.
A little further up on the site, you can also find the remains of the Red Mosque and the Kisha Shën Triadha (Holy Trinity Church).
You should plan around two hours for your visit.
Good to know: There is hardly any shade on the entire site – so don’t forget sun protection and enough water for your child.
Back down in the city, we set off on foot to explore Berat’s old town.
The old town is divided by the Osum River into two historic districts: Mangalem, located directly below the castle, and Gorica on the opposite side of the river.
The Mangalem district, with its historic, Ottoman-style houses built in terraces on the hillside, is also known as the “City of a Thousand Windows.”
The facades with their countless windows are truly impressive and a highlight both during the day and in the evening, when the lights come on.
A walk through the quarter is especially worthwhile in the late afternoon or early evening.
By then, it is no longer so hot, and the warm light gives the old town a very special atmosphere.
The paths through Mangalem are stony, often uneven, and full of stairs. Asphalt is nowhere to be found – but that’s exactly what gives this district its unique charm.
Between the houses and along the alleys, grapevines grow again and again, climbing over walls and facades – a beautiful, typical sight.
You will also find a few small accommodations directly in this district – ideal for those who want to stay in an authentic setting.
Right in the alleys of Mangalem you’ll come across a restaurant that has now become well-known far beyond Berat: the small, family-run “Lilly Home Food.”
It serves traditional Albanian home cooking. Since there are only a few tables, a reservation is essential – ideally by phone before your trip.
Even during our visit in June, before the main season, everything was already fully booked.
On the opposite side of the Osum River lies the Gorica district, which you can reach via two bridges: the historic Gorica Bridge from the 18th century further upstream and a modern bridge directly across from Mangalem.
Gorica is also built in terraces on the hillside. The alleys, like in Mangalem, are stony, uneven, and not paved.
You will also find some small accommodations and restaurants here, and a few locals still live in the old houses.
Overall, the district feels quieter and less lively. Many of the old houses are empty and slowly falling into decay, which we found a bit sad.
A walk is still worthwhile. The view of Mangalem and the castle is beautiful, and the calm atmosphere on this side of the river has its very own charm.
A completely different picture of Berat appears when you continue walking from the end of the pedestrian zone towards the stadium.
You will hardly meet any tourists here, but instead far more locals.
The cityscape also changes suddenly. After the neat, well-maintained pedestrian area, you find plain apartment blocks where mainly locals live.
Many facades are unplastered, countless cables run between the houses, and parked cars line the streets.
On the ground floors, small shops are lined up next to each other, serving mostly local residents.
We found this walk very interesting. It showed us another side of Berat, less touristy but all the more authentic.
Our accommodation: Blue Eye Hotel
Recommended stay: 3 to 6 days
From Berat, we drove about three and a half hours by car to Ksamil in the south of Albania. The route is truly varied and scenic.
Part of the drive follows the Vjosa River, the last large, free-flowing river in Europe outside of Russia.
Afterwards, the well-developed Rruga Ura e Kardhiqit takes you through the mountains, offering beautiful views of the surrounding landscape along the way.
Arriving in Ksamil, one of the most famous tourist destinations in the country.
Anyone searching for Albania tips on social media will quickly come across countless pictures and videos of the beaches, often described as the “Maldives of Europe.”
Of course, we wanted to see this for ourselves.
We stayed four nights at the Blue Eye Hotel, which we can truly recommend.
It is located right in the center of town, so many restaurants, cafés, and the main beaches can easily be reached on foot.
Only some more remote bays, such as Pema e Thatë, are a bit further away.
The modern hotel offers spacious rooms, breakfast on the rooftop terrace, an elevator, and its own pool.
Although the pool is quite deep, it was still perfect for us with a toddler, especially in the afternoons after nap time when another beach visit would have been too much effort.
Another big plus: the private parking lot. Parking in Ksamil is often chaotic, so having a spot directly at the hotel was very convenient.
During our stay, we visited several beaches. Whether they really are the Maldives of Europe, we cannot say – we have never been to the Maldives.
What we can say is that the sand is fine and light, and the water truly crystal clear.
However, we quickly realized that space on the beaches is often limited.
The bays are not very large, and many of the smaller sections belong to restaurants or beach bars.
This means that without renting a sunbed and umbrella (usually placed tightly packed almost up to the waterline), it is difficult to find a spot.
Prices vary depending on the provider. While they are still much lower than in most of Europe, several beach days can still add up.
Another downside for families is the loud music played at some of the beach bars.
To fully enjoy your beach day on the Albanian Riviera, it’s worth keeping a few things in mind beforehand:
For more tips and information for a perfect beach day, check out our post “Traveling to Albania with a Baby or Toddler – Tips, Useful Information & Our Experience.”
A day at the beach makes you hungry – and in Ksamil you’ll be spoiled for choice.
There are countless restaurants, usually a bit more expensive than in the rest of the country but still inexpensive compared to European standards.
Our tip: Rrapa’s Grill Station. Despite its location on the main road, the noise level is pleasant, the staff is very friendly, there is a high chair for children, and the food is delicious.
In the high season, a small market takes place every evening between Podabar and KEY-21 BURGER & GRILL. There you can discover all kinds of souvenirs and handmade items.
Good to know: On weekends, especially in the evenings, the whole town gets very crowded. Many tourists from the surrounding areas flock here – either to enjoy the lively atmosphere or to party until late at night.
Our conclusion about Albania’s tourist hotspot: Ksamil is definitely worth a visit, if only for the stunning beaches with their very own character.
However, we would not recommend families with children to spend the majority of their holiday here.
The country has so many other highlights and beautiful beaches to offer that are often quieter and more spacious.
The larger neighboring town is only about a 20-minute drive from Ksamil.
You will also find beautiful beaches here, although most of them are privately owned.
The best swimming spots can easily be found via Google Maps.
We tried the free city beach directly on the promenade.
It is rather rocky, but the water is crystal clear and perfectly fine for a few relaxing hours.
The only downside: between the stones you often find pieces of broken glass, so be sure to bring water shoes.
You also need to bring your own sun umbrella and towels or mats. Paid parking is available directly behind the promenade.
Good to know: From Saranda, ferries depart to the Greek island of Corfu – perfect for a spontaneous day trip.
If you are in the mood for culture, we recommend visiting Gjirokastër, the “city of stone,” located about one and a half hours by car from Ksamil.
Perched on the hillside, it impresses with its historic old town, winding alleys, old stone houses, and stunning views.
Between small shops selling handmade carpets, souvenirs, musical instruments, and traditional clothing, you can stroll around at your leisure.
Along the way, cozy restaurants and cafés invite you to take a break – perfect for relaxing and watching the bustle of the town.
The highlight is the impressive castle towering above the city.
From here, you have a wonderful view over the rooftops of Gjirokastër and the surrounding valley.
Within the extensive castle walls, you can stroll through different areas.
Tickets for the castle can be purchased directly at the entrance.
Afterwards, a walk through the upper part of the town, just behind the castle, is worthwhile.
There you will find more traditional houses and narrow alleys.
Especially worth seeing are the Skenduli House and the Zekate House.
These historic residences are like small museums and show how wealthy families lived here centuries ago.
On hot summer days, we recommend visiting Gjirokastër in the morning, as the many stairs and steep paths can quickly become exhausting.
You can safely leave the stroller at your hotel or in the car.
A baby carrier is much more practical here.
Sun protection and plenty of water are essential, especially if you plan to visit the castle.
On our way back from Gjirokastër, we made a stop at one of Albania’s most famous natural wonders – the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër).
Here, an ice-cold river springs from the depths of the earth.
The source is so deep that its actual depth remains a mystery to this day.
Divers have already reached more than 50 meters, but nobody knows how deep the Blue Eye really is.
What immediately catches the eye, however, is the crystal-clear water shimmering in every shade of blue.
From the parking area, it’s about a 25-minute walk along a well-paved road to the spring, although there is little shade.
Because of the sunny path and the many visitors, we recommend visiting the Blue Eye in summer either early in the morning or later in the afternoon.
If you prefer something more comfortable, you can take the tourist train that runs regularly to the spring, or rent an e-scooter from one of the providers – both available for an extra fee. Entrance costs about 50 Lek per person (as of 2025).
Our accommodation: Seaside Residence
Recommended stay: 3 to 6 days
The drive from Ksamil to Vlora mostly follows the coastline over the Llogara Pass – for us, one of the most beautiful routes in all of Albania.
According to the navigation system, the trip takes about two and a half hours, but we needed much longer.
The photo stops along the panoramic road were simply too tempting, as was the chance to take a look at some of the stunning beaches around Himara along the way.
Vlora is the third-largest city in Albania and also a popular destination for tourists.
Since our route took us over the modern Vlora Bypass, we were able to get a first view of the city from above. The panorama over the city and the sea is truly fantastic.
However, visitors should not expect a classic sightseeing or shopping metropolis.
Historical attractions are few, but Vlora is the perfect base for exploring the stunning beaches in the surrounding area.
There is a small pedestrian zone along the main street, but most of the life happens in the many bars and restaurants along the modern, kilometer-long promenade.
Here, seaside venues line up one after another – perfect for a relaxed evening.
For families with children, there is also a small Ferris wheel and a few rides that open every day at sunset.
In Vlora, we experienced Xhiro for the first time, the traditional Albanian evening stroll.
As soon as the sun sets, the promenade fills with people of all ages.
Families, friends, and couples stroll leisurely along the sea, chat, and enjoy the fresh air.
In the green areas, groups of older men sit together to talk and play games – a sight we found very charming.
Our accommodation was in a building complex just behind the promenade, which made it easy for us to reach and explore the city and the city beaches on foot.
Restaurant tip: Right across from our accommodation was Restorant Tradicional VANI – an authentic, affordable place with incredibly delicious food that we can highly recommend.
In Vlora, many of the beach sections along the promenade are privately operated.
This means that sunbeds and umbrellas usually require a fee.
At sunset, however, things are more relaxed, and most operators don’t mind if you spread out your own towel for an hour or two on their section.
During the day, though, checks are carried out regularly.
Beach tip: Our absolute favorite in the region was Orikum Beach.
It is located about 30 minutes from the city center and can only be reached by car.
This beach is ideal for babies and toddlers: the sand is fine, the water crystal clear, and the entry into the sea is very shallow for many, many meters.
There are both private and public areas here. We usually visited the beach at Hotel Amantia, where there is a public section that was never crowded, even in June.
For refreshing drinks or a small snack, we enjoyed the cozy beach bars at the hotel.
On the way to Orikum, you drive right along the coast and pass several smaller but still beautiful (mostly private) beach sections.
These are usually rocky, and the water gets deep relatively quickly, which in our opinion makes them less suitable for toddlers.
Along this coastline, you can clearly see how much the country is currently changing.
New hotels are being built everywhere – from large luxury resorts to smaller boutique hotels and apartments.
In a few years, this area will certainly be much busier than it is today.
Our accommodation: Durres Vintage Apartment
Recommended stay: 2 to 4 days
From Vlora, we drove just under two hours to Durrës, the final coastal city on our Albania road trip.
To be honest, we didn’t have high expectations – most things you read online focus mainly on the stunning beaches in southern Albania.
But Durrës positively surprised us. The coastal city is charming, lively, and offers an exciting mix of history, Mediterranean flair, and modern beach life.
We especially liked the wide beach sections of Durrës located a little outside the center, which are perfect for a relaxed day by the sea.
For those who want to combine city and beach, we can highly recommend our accommodation in the center: modern, well-equipped, and located just one block behind the promenade. While you need about 10 minutes by car to reach the beach, you can easily walk to the city’s highlights as well as the many cafés and restaurants.
We found this especially convenient in the evenings. Another great extra for us was the large playground on the promenade, only a few steps away.
The largest Roman amphitheater in the Balkans. From our accommodation, it was only about a three-minute walk.
If you like, you can also visit the inside of the amphitheater.
For us, however, the free view from above was already more than enough.
A special highlight: During our stay, various events took place in the amphitheater in the evenings, creating a truly unique atmosphere.
Right next to the amphitheater lies the Fatih Mosque, one of the most famous religious landmarks in Durrës.
During the day, the square in front is usually quiet, but in the evening the area comes to life: the square fills with people, and the mosque is beautifully illuminated.
Only remnants of the city wall are still preserved today. The Venetian Tower is a particularly popular photo spot, but don’t expect anything spectacular.
The promenade is ideal for relaxed walks, especially in the evening when the temperatures are pleasant and the city comes to life.
A special attraction is the Sfinksi Monument (Sphinx), located directly on the promenade. At sunset, it is a popular meeting point for both locals and tourists.
Epidamn Boulevard is the lively shopping street of Durrës.
Here you will mainly find many small local shops, cafés, and boutiques.
Large international fashion brands are not present.
A visit is worthwhile both during the day and in the evening after sunset.
While the boulevard feels rather relaxed during the day, it transforms into a lively promenade in the evening: the street fills with people strolling, shopping, or simply meeting up for a chat.
Our accommodation: Green Terrace Apartments Tirana
Recommended stay: 2 to 4 days
Where our road trip began is also where it ended – in Albania’s capital city.
This time, however, we took the opportunity to explore Tirana more closely, located only about a 40-minute drive from Durrës.
For us, Tirana was the complete contrast to the rest of Albania: loud, bustling, full of traffic, and always on the move.
Between honking cars, modern architecture, old buildings, and countless bars and cafés, you immediately feel a real big-city vibe – a stark contrast to the mostly relaxed coastal towns.
During our stay, a heatwave with around 40 °C made sightseeing more difficult. Still, we wanted to experience as much of the city as possible, and it was definitely worth it.
Skanderbeg Square is the heart of Tirana and the perfect starting point for exploring the city.
Around the square, you will find museums, the opera, and other significant buildings. It is a lively meeting place for both locals and visitors.
The Et’hem Bey Mosque is one of Albania’s most famous mosques and is located directly on Skanderbeg Square. We especially liked the colorful frescoes and artistic decorations.
Once reserved only for party officials, the Blloku district is today Tirana’s trendy neighborhood. With its stylish cafés, bars, and restaurants, it is perfect for an evening stroll.
The Enver Hoxha Pyramid was originally built as a museum for the dictator and today serves as a modern cultural center.
After its renovation, it now shines in new splendor. You can climb up the steps and enjoy a great view over Tirana from the top.
The largest mosque in Albania, also located right in the city center. An impressive building and an important religious site for the residents of the capital.
Of the old castle, only the outer wall remains today. Inside, you will find a few small shops, restaurants, and cafés.
It is a lovely place for strolling and dining, especially on weekends when it becomes very lively.
Although it is rather touristy, we still really enjoyed the atmosphere and ambiance.
On Shyqyri Bërxolli Street, you will find a colorful mix of fruit, vegetables, spices, and local products.
There are also many souvenirs, handmade items – as well as the typical counterfeit goods.
Just let yourself wander. If you decide to buy something, don’t forget to bargain.
The shopping malls Toptani Center in the city center and Tirana East Gate a little outside the city offer international brands, restaurants, and air-conditioned spaces – ideal for escaping the summer heat.
The Grand Park at the artificial lake is the green lung of Tirana.
It is the perfect place for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Children can enjoy the playgrounds or run around in the spacious park area.
On the outskirts of Tirana lies the Dajti Express cable car, which can only be reached by car.
The ride up the mountain of the same name is an experience in itself.
At the top, you are rewarded with a fantastic panoramic view over Tirana and the surrounding mountains.
There is also a restaurant, a nice playground, a climbing park, and a mini golf course.
You should plan at least half a day for this excursion. Information about opening hours and tickets can be found on the official Dajti Express website.
Nowhere in Albania are the streets as congested as in Tirana.
For your sightseeing program, however, this is not a problem if you choose accommodation right in the city center.
From our place, which included free parking, we could reach everything on foot except the cable car and Tirana East Gate.
The paths in the city center are mostly well developed, so getting around with a stroller is no problem.
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